MANILA, Philippines – If one pastry gets many Filipinos in a tizzy, it’s a good, freshly-baked croissant.
Its buttery aroma, delicate layers, and distinct crunch inspire both cravings and debates alike: What truly makes a croissant good?
A good croissant isn’t just a product of skill — it’s a culmination of technique, ingredients, and patience. According to French-born pastry chef Jean-Marc Bernelin, a renowned chocolatier and bakery expert with over two decades of experience, there’s an art to creating “the perfect croissant.”
Bernelin is also the Head Chef and Commissary Head of Singapore’s Tiong Bahru Bakery, which opened in Verve Residences at High Street South, Bonifacio Global City in January.
He said to watch out for these three things to distinguish what separates an ordinary croissant from a well-made one.
The foundation: Quality ingredients
“Start with the best ingredients,” said Bernelin. The butter should be rich and fragrant, preferably European butter. It has a higher fat content for a creamier texture.
The flour, milk, and sugar should also be of high quality, but it’s the butter that delivers the most impact. It’s no surprise that many of the world’s best croissants use ingredients imported directly from France, the birthplace of the pastry.
Trust the process, time, and technique
Croissant-making is as much about precision as it is about passion. Trust the process, and get lost in it, Bernelin explained. Bakers need to know how to achieve proper lamination, which is the painstaking technique of layering butter and dough. That is the key to achieving the croissant’s signature flaky texture.
“It’s a meticulous process. Every layer matters,” he said.
The dough undergoes a multi-day process of rolling, folding, and resting, allowing the gluten to develop and the butter to integrate seamlessly. Skipping steps or rushing the process compromises the delicate structure of the croissant. That is why some croissants turn out dense and stale, and not crisp and flaky.
Fresh is best
One of the most overlooked aspects of a good croissant is how recently it was baked. A croissant is best enjoyed fresh out of the oven, when its crust is crisp, and the interior is soft and warm.
Once cooled, it just doesn’t hit the same. This is why many bakeries prioritize regular baking schedules (every 2-3 hours, ideally) throughout the day to offer customers the freshest possible pastries.
Beauty is in the eye
“A croissant should look as good as it tastes,” Bernelin said. The exterior should have a golden-brown hue, with a slight sheen care of the butter. When you look at its side, you should see distinct, even layers, which is a sign of expert lamination, he added. Visual appeal is important.
Take a bite
When you finally bite into a croissant, it should flake delicately, leaving your fingers slightly dusted with crumbs. The interior should be soft yet structured, with a crisp outer shell. The flavor? A delicate balance of buttery richness and light sweetness, without being overwhelming.
While croissants have become a hot commodity in Metro Manila, the best ones stay true to their roots: simple ingredients, thoughtful techniques, and a respect for tradition.
Tiong Bahru Bakery was founded in Singapore in 2012 by fourth-generation French pastry chef Gontran Cherrier, starting as a humble shop in Singapore’s oldest estate Tiong Bahru.
It now has 21 branches in Singapore. Tiong Bahru Philippines is its first overseas branch. – Rappler.com